These are tormented poets with an effortless attitude when it comes to mixing and creating personal style," says Gucci creative director Frida Giannini of her menswear autumn/winter 2012 collection, which was shown yesterday in Milan. "Fabrics that allude to the 19th century, softly oversized pieces, shirts with a dandy hint, and the nonchalance of a newly-arrived young Hollywood actor."
The show notes also referenced "Visconti grunge", Caravaggio paintings and Leonardo DiCaprio in Total Eclipse.
On the catwalk, this translated to the Gucci boy, with his amazing hair, swaggering in a jumbo cardigan over a suit jacket, a short naval jacket with gold buttons or perhaps a sharp double-breasted blazer. A subtle rose print featured on suits, while splashes of peacock green and rich red added an extra decadent splash – the latter was particularly lovely on a cable jumper.
This season's accessories, a key part of the Gucci business, are riding boots – a look Giannini herself is a big fan of – alongside exotic skin briefcases or suitcases. Though best of all were the large tapestry carpet bags – Mary Poppins goes rock star.
For night, and if ever there was a label that does justice to fancy cocktail attire then it's Gucci, there were velvet jackets with an air of expensive flocked wallpaper. Floral corsages were attached to dinner suits to add a flourish. Trenches and blazers had been given the lasercut ponyskin remix.
The cocktail jacket might not be top of most men's shopping lists, especially when they cost this kind of luxury label money, but in Milan there is definitely a lot of love going down for the evening blazer. At Alexander McQueen's presentation yesterday, there were several statement cocktail jackets of note. Expect these pieces to be coming to a red carpet near you very soon.
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